Felted Cloche Pattern

Size:
-Pre-felting: aprx. 22" circumerence and 12" length (including brim)
-After felting: aprx. 21" circumference and 8" length (including brim)

Materials:

-Briggs & Little Heritage - 100 % wool, 215 yd/196m per 4 oz/113 g ball; Colour 41 (Navy Blue), 2 balls (aprx. 6.75 oz / 190 g / 365 yd / 333 m) per hat
-1 set of US #9/5.5mm dpns
-1 US #9/5.5mm circular needle, 24" length or less (optional)

Gauge: 15 sts and 23 rows = 4 in/10 cm on 5.5 mm needles (Note - to facilitate felting, the hat is knit at a looser gauge than the 17 stitches to 4 in/10cm recommended on the ball band).

Directions: Using dpns or circular needle, cast on 100 stitches. Mark beginning of round. Work in stockinette stitch* in the round until work measures 2.5 inches.

*Note - if you don't like the little roll on the brim of the hat, work the brim in garter stitch instead of stockinette.

Hat with garter stitch brim:

Next row: K3, k2tog around - 80 stitches remain. Continue working in stockinette stitch, in the round, until work measures 8.5 inches from the beginning.

Begin crown shaping:

Row 1 - *k8, k2tog* around.

Row 2 and 3 - k around.

Row 4 - *k7, k2tog* around.

Row 5 and 6 - k around.

Row 7 - *k6, k2tog* around.

Row 8 - k around.

Row 9 - *k5, k2tog* around.

Row 10 - k around.

Row 11 - *k4, k2tog* around.

Row 12 - k around.

Row 13 - *k3, k2tog* around.

Row 14 - *k2, k2tog* around.

Row 15 - *k1, k2tog* around.

Row 16 - *k2tog* around.

Break yarn and pull through remaining 8 stitches.Weave in ends.

Hat pre-felting (on a phone book for scale):

Felting: Put the hat in a lingierie bag or an old pillow-case and put it in the washing machine with a little soap and some old clothes for friction (I used dark-coloured clothes in case the dye from this dark-coloured hat ran), on hot water setting. Check hat frequently. Throw it in the washing machine again if it isn't small enough yet - I had to send my hat through four times.

Hat after felting (on the same phone book):

A family history of the cloche:

From left to right: my grandmother, great-grandmother, and my great-aunt have come from Saskatoon, Saskatchewan to Montreal, Quebec in May of 1929 and worn their fashionable hats while visiting the big city!

Little Rugged Raglan

A little boy's raglan pullover made with a hard-wearing but soft-to-the-touch acrylic/cotton yarn in a rugged grey and white mix with bright red accent stripes at the cuffs, hem, collar and front pocket. Pattern includes a matching ribbed hat and scarf.

Sweater in photos is size 6 (worn by a size 4 boy). 4 balls of yarn made the sweater (size 6), hat (size 6-8) and scarf.

SWEATER

Materials:
MC: Bernat “Denim Style” 70% acrylic / 30% cotton, 3.5 oz / 100 g / 196 yd per ball, colour 03044 “Sweatshirt”; 3[3, 3, 3] balls (7.25[8.25, 9.5, 10.25] oz / 207[237, 270, 290] g / 405[465, 530, 567] yds required)
CC: Bernat Super Value 100% acrylic, 7 oz / 197 g / 335 yd per ball, colour Scarlet; 1[1, 1, 1] ball (small amount required)
1 set US #8 / 5.0 mm straight needles or size needed to get gauge.
1 set of 4 or 5 US #8 / 5.0 mm dpns or size needed to get gauge.
Contrasting thread or thin yarn.
Darning Needle

Size: Boy’s 2[4, 6, 8]

Measurements: Finished Chest: 28[30, 32, 33.5] inches; 70[75, 80, 84] cm
Finished Length: 14[14.5, 15.75, 18] inches; 35[37.5, 40, 45 cm]

Gauge: 15 stitches and 20 rows = 4 inches / 10 cm in stockinette stitch
18 stitches and 20 rows = 4 inches / 10 cm in k2p2 rib, slightly stretched

Abbreviations:
K – knit
P - purl
RS – Right Side
WS – Wrong Side
MC – Main Colour
CC – Contrast Colour
St(s) – Stitch / stitches
Patt. - pattern
Kfb – knit into front and back of stitch
K2tog – knit two together
K2p2 rib: k2, p2 across RS row, then work p2, k2 across the WS rows.

Directions:

Back:
Using straight needles and MC, cast on 60 [64, 68, 72] stitches. Work in k2p2 rib for 4[4, 4, 4] rows. Change to CC and work 2 rows. Change back to MC and work 6[6, 8, 8] more rows for a total of 12[12, 14, 14] rows of ribbing, ending on WS row.
Next row (RS): Begin working in stockinette stitch and decrease 8[8, 8, 10] stitches evenly across (52[56, 60, 62] stitches remain). Work even until piece measures 6[6.5, 7, 9] inches (15[16, 17.5, 22.5] cm), ending with a WS row.
Next row (RS): K 1, k2tog, k across to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1.
Next row (WS): P across.
Repeat these two rows until 12[14,16,16] sts remain. Bind off all stitches.

Front: Work as for back.

Sleeves (make two):
Using straight needles and MC, cast on 30[30, 34, 34] stitches. Work 4 rows in k2p2 rib. Change to CC and work two rows. Change back to MC and work 6[6, 8, 8] more rows for a total of 12[12, 14, 14] rows of ribbing, ending on WS row.
Next row (RS): Begin working in stockinette stitch and decrease 4 [4, 4, 4] sts evenly across. P next row.
Next row (RS): K1, kfb, k across to last 2 sts, kfb, k1. Repeat increase row every other row 6[3, 1, 2] times more, then increase every 4th row 4[8, 10, 10] times for a total of 48[50, 54, 56] stitches. Work even until sleeve measures 8.5[10.5, 11.5, 12.5] inches (21[26, 29, 31] cm), ending with a WS row.
Next row (RS): K1, k2tog, work across to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1.
Next row (WS): p across.
Repeat these two rows until 8[8, 10, 10] sts remain. Bind off all stitches.

Neckband:
Sew sleeves to front and back along raglan armholes. Using dpns and MC, begin at right side of front neck and pick up and knit 12[14, 16, 16] sts from front neck, 8[8, 10, 10] stitches from right sleeve, 12[14, 16, 16] sts from back neck, and 8[8, 10, 10] stitches from left sleeve for a total of 40[44, 52, 52] sts. Working in the round, work 4 rows of k2p2 rib. Change to CC and work two rows. Change back to MC and work 2 more rows for a total of 8 rows. Bind off all stitches very loosely.

Pocket:
Using darning needle and contrasting thread or thin yarn, mark the center 30[32, 34, 36] sts of front of sweater approximately 9 rows up from the beginning of stockinette-stitch. Using MC and straight needles, pick up and knit these 30[32, 34, 36] stitches.
Next row (WS): slip 1st st purl-wise and p across.
Next row (RS): slip 1st st purl-wise, k1, k2tog, k across to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1.
Next row (WS): slip 1st st purl-wise and p across.
Change to CC and repeat last two rows.
Change back to MC and repeat last two rows until 20[22, 24, 26] sts remain. Bind off all sts. Sew top of pocket to sweater.

Finishing: Sew underarm seams. Weave in all ends. Wash and lay flat to dry.

HAT

MC: Bernat “Denim Style” 70% acrylic / 30% cotton, 196 yd / 100g / ball, colour 03044 “Sweatshirt”; 1[1] ball (2[2.5] / 55[70] g / 106[135] yds required)
CC: Bernat Super Value 100% acrylic, 7 oz / 225 g / 335 yd / ball, colour Scarlet; 1[1, 1, 1] ball (small amount required)

Size: 2-4[6-8]
Finished Circumference: 16[17.5] inches / 40 cm [44 cm] – hat will stretch several inches wider.

Directions: Using MC and dpns, cast on 72[80] stitches. Work in k2p2 rib in the round for 4 rows. Change to CC and work 2 rows. Change back to MC and work until piece measures 8[9] inches (20[22.5] cm).
Begin crown shaping:
Round 1: *Work 6 sts in patt. K2tog (or p2tog)* around
Round 2: Work in patt.
Round 3: *Work 5 sts in patt. K2tog (or p2tog)* around
Round 4: Work in patt.
Round 5: *Work 4 sts in patt. K2tog (or p2tog)* around
Round 6: Work in patt.
Round 7: *Work 3 sts in patt. K2tog (or p2tog)* around
Round 8: Work in patt.
Round 9: *Work 2 sts. in patt. K2tog (or p2tog)* around
Round 10. *Work 1 st in patt. K2tog (or p2tog)* around
Round 11: K2tog around.

Break yarn, draw through all remaining stitches and pull snugly. Weave in all ends. Wash and lay flat to dry.

SCARF

Materials: MC: Bernat “Denim Style” 70% acrylic / 30% cotton, 196 yd / 100g / ball, colour 03044 “Sweatshirt”; 1 ball; (2.8 oz / 80 g / 158 yds required)
CC: Bernat Super Value 100% acrylic, 7 oz / 225 g / 335 yd / ball, colour Scarlet; 1 ball; (small amount required)

Size: Child - One size
Finished Measurements: 4 inches (10 cm) wide by 48 inches (120 cm) long.

Rib pattern:
Row 1 (RS): Slip 1 purlwise, *k2p2* across to last 3 stitches, k3.
Row 2 (WS): Slip 1 purlwise, *p2k2* across to last 3 stitches, p3

Directions: With MC and straight needles, cast on 22 stitches. Work 4 rows in patt.
Change to CC and work 2 rows.
Change back to MC and work until piece measures 46.5 inches (116 cm), or 1.5 inches (4 cm) less than desired length.
Change to CC and work 2 rows.
Change back to MC and work 4 rows. Bind off all stitches.
Weave in all ends. Wash and lay flat to dry.

S(p)ock

Got left-over sock yarn? Looking for something to knit while watching your favorite Sci-Fi or Fantasy movies? How about your own set of pointy ears!

The ears are knit from the lobes up with short-rows shaping the front and back of the tip. Stitches are then picked up around the sides and bottom of the ear to form the “cuff.” Left and right ears are knit the same; they are simply embroidered on opposite sides.

After some research (OK, I wore the ears around the house for a while), I learned that the ears stay on well enough by themselves, but if they are to be worn for a long time, or by children, affixing the ears with a little double-sided tape may be good insurance.

SIZE
Small (older child or small adult) [Large (adult)]

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
Length: 3.5 ins / 9 cm
Width: 1.75 ins / 4.5 cm

MATERIALS
[MC] Scheepjes Invicta Extra [75% wool, 25% polyamide-nylon; 218 yd/200 m per 50g skein]; color: 1415 (fawn); 1 skein - a pair of ears uses approximately 8 g/35 yd/32 m of yarn
[CC] Scheepjes Invicta Extra [75% wool, 25% polyamide-nylon; 218 yd/200 m per 50g skein];color: 1419 (chocolate); one yd/m

1 set US #1/2.25mm double-point needles
1 set US #1/2.25 mm straight needles (optional – you may also work back-and-forth on dpn’s)

darning needle

GAUGE
40 sts/56 rows = 4" in stockinette stitch

PATTERN
CO 12 sts on US #1/2.25mm straight needles using long-tail cast-on.
Next row [WS]: P across
Next row [RS]: K1, inc 1 st, k across to last st, inc 1 st, k1. Repeat increase row every other row until there are 26 sts. Work 3 rows even, ending on WS row.
Next row [RS]: K1, sl 1, k1, psso, k across to last 3 sts, ssk, k1. Repeat this decrease row every 4th row until 16 sts remain. Work 1 row even, ending on a WS row.

Begin short-row shaping:
Next row [RS]: K across to last st, w&t, p across to last st, w&t. K across to second-last st, w&t, p across to second-last st, w&t. Continue in this manner until all but two sts have been wrapped, ending on a WS row.
Next row [RS]: K to first wrap, pick up wrap and knit together with the stitch it is wrapped around, wrap next stitch (there will now be two wraps around this st) and turn work. P to the next wrapped stitch, pick up the wrap and purl it together with the stitch it is wrapped around, wrap the next stitch (which will also now have two wraps), turn work.
K across to first double-wrapped stitch, pick up and k both wraps with their stitch, w&t, p across to next double-wrapped stitch, pick up and p both wraps with their stitch, w&t. Continue in this manner until all stitches have been worked, ending with a WS row.

Pick Up Stitches for “Cuff”: If using straight needles, transfer all 16 sts to a dpn.
With RS facing and using dpn’s, beginning to the left of the leftmost live stitch, pu and k 12 sts along left side of ear between beginning point and last increase on LHS of ear; pu and k 20 sts along bottom of ear between last increase on LHS of ear and last increase on RHS of ear, and pu 12 sts along RHS of ear between last increase on RHS and rightmost live stitch. There are now a total of 60 stitches.

Size Small Only:
Working in the round, work 1 row in stockinette stitch.
Next row: K 13, k2tog around (56 sts).
Next row: Work even.
Next row: K 12, k2tog around (52 sts).
Next row: Work even.
Begin k2p2 rib and work 4 rows of ribbing.

Size Large Only:
Working in the round, work 4 rows in stockinette stitch.
Begin k2p2 rib and work 4 rows of ribbing.

All sizes: Bind off all stitches loosely, but less loosely than you would bind off a sock top. The ribbing should not flare out along the bound-off row.


FINISHING
Using darning needle and CC, backstitch ear detail as in picture.
Weave in all ends. Wash, shape and lay face-down to dry (stuff while drying if necesary)

Media - S(p)ock Ears as seen on:

Boing Boing

Rocketboom

The Daily Chum

Atlantica Magazine, Sept-Oct 2008 issue

Jacana Shawl

This is a warm, simple shawl that works up quickly on 5.0 mm needles. It has a garter stitch border, yarn-over increases at either end, and is embellished with a simple lozenge lace pattern on a stockinette stitch background. It also has a drawstring around the top edge to keep the shawl delicately in place.

Materials:
-3x 50 g Bouquet Jacana, 70% acrylic, 30% mohair (no yardage given; aprx. 135 yd/ball)
-5.0 mm circular needle, at least 24” in length (I went up to a 32” needle for the second half of the shawl)

Gauge: aprx. 14 st/ 22 rows to 4 inches/10 cm (gauge is not critical for this project!)

Finished Measurement: aprx. 54 inches wide and 33 inches long at the point.

Lozenge Lace Pattern: (from “The Ultimate Sourcebook of Knitting and Crochet Stitches”)

1st row: k3, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, sl 1, k1, psso, k3.
2nd and every alt row: purl
3rd row: k2, k2tog, yo, k3, yo, sl 1, k1, psso, k2.
5th row: k1, k2tog, yo, k5, yo, sl 1, k1, psso, k1.
7th row: k2tog, yo, k7, yo, sl 1, k1, psso.
9th row (RS): k1, yo, sl 1, k1 psso, k5, k2tog, yo, k1.
11th row : k2,yo, sl 1, k1, psso, k3, k2tog, yo, k2.
13th row: k3, yo, sl 1, k1, psso, k1, k2tog, yo, k3.
15th row: k4, yo, sl 1, k2tog, psso, yo, k4.
16th row: purl

Repeat these 16 rows.


Directions:
CO 5 sts.
Next row (WS): k2, p1, k2
Next row (RS): k2, yo, k1, yo, k2
Next row (WS): k2, p across to last 2 sts, k2
Next row (RS): k2, yo, k across to last 2 sts, yo, k2
Next row (WS): k2, p across to last 2 sts, k2.

Repeat last 2 rows until there are 11 stitches between yo’s. Begin lozenge lace pattern (I started the pattern at row 9). Add another repeat on either side when you have enough new stitches. Continue until there are 15 repeats and work to the end of this repeat.
Work 3 rows stockinette stitch.
Next row (WS): k2, (yo, p2tog) across to last 2 sts, k2.
Work 3 more rows stockinette stitch.
Change to garter stitch and knit the next 3 rows. BO loosely (I bound off using a 6.0 mm needle).

Finishing:
Drawstring: Cut three strands of yarn each 120” in length. Braid until drawstring measures 90” or desired length. Thread drawstring through eyelets, leaving about 12” of eyelets open at either end.
Or: Work 3-stitch i-cord until drawstring measures desired length.

Weave in all ends and block.

Chaos Jr

Chaos Jr.
This is the child and teen sized version of the chaos sweater, published at http://knitty.com/ISSUEwinter05/PATTchaos.html. Chaos Jr a loose-fitting crew-neck pullover, and is written for sizes 2-16.


MATERIALS
Tivoli Woolblend 400 [80% acrylic, 20 % wool; 822 yd/752 m per 400g skein]
Yardage: 530[620, 700], 790[885, 1005, 1090, 1160] yds required; 1[1, 1], 1[2, 2, 2] skeins required

*Chaos knitting requires aprx. 25% more yarn than a stockinette-stitch sweater of the same size.*

1 set US #8/5.0mm straight needles
1 set US #7/4.5mm straight needles
1 set of four US #7/4.5 mm double-point needles.
cable needle
1 (or more) die/dice
stitch markers
stitch holder
darning needle
3 3/8 in/15mm buttons
GAUGE19 sts/24 rows = 4" in stockinette stitch
23 sts/24 rows = 4" in cable pattern

CABLE PATTERN
Row 1 - random cable (see below for details)
Row 2 - purl
Row 3 - knit
Row 4 - purl

Random Cable
K2 sts to begin the row. Roll the die. If you roll a:
1 - C4F [slip two stitches to a cable needle and hold cable needle in front of the work, knit two stitches from the left needle, knit the two stitches from the cable needle]
2 - C4B [slip two stitches to a cable needle and hold cable needle at back of the work, knit two stitches from the left needle, knit the two stitches from the cable needle]
3- K2
4 - K2
5 - roll again
6 - roll again
Keep rolling and performing the according action until all but the last 2 sts are worked. K the last 2 sts.

Note 1: the first and last two sts of every row are knit. If you roll a 1 or 2 with four or less stitches left in the row, ignore the roll, and knit the last stitches.

Note 2: It may be necessary to ‘cheat’ a little if you get a large or small number of cables in succession. If your knitted fabric was infinitely large, any cluster of cable stitches would be balanced out by clusters of knit stitches in the long run. But since this sweater is made using a limited number of stitches, especially when you divide for the neck, you may need to ignore or insert a cable to keep the fabric fairly flat and even. For example, if you roll 1-1-1-1, you may change this to 1-1-3-3-1. Or if you roll 3-3-4-4-3-3 you may change this to 3-3-2-3-3. However, don’t give in to the temptation to ‘cheat’ too often (more than once per row or so) or you may compromise the randomness of the pattern. Treat this cable pattern like the child you’re knitting it for; don’t be completely unbending with the rules, but don’t be overly permissive, either.


BACK

Using smaller needles, CO 64[68, 74], 78[80, 86, 90] sts. Work 10[12, 12], 12[14, 14, 14] rows in k1p1 rib.

Next row (RS): using larger needles, k across, increasing 14[16, 16], 16[18, 18, 18] sts evenly across for a total of 78[84, 90], 94[98, 104, 108] sts.

Begin working Random Cable Pattern.
Work in pattern until work measures 7.5[8, 8.5], 9[9.5, 10, 10.75] inches, ending with a RS row.

Shape armhole
Next row (WS): work *p2, p2tog* 1[1, 1], 1[2, 2, 2] times at beginning of next row, work across to last 5[5, 5], 5[10, 10, 10] sts, work *p2, p2tog* 1[1, 1], 1[2, 2, 2] times. BO 6[8, 8], 8[10, 10, 12] sts at beg of next 2 rows. 66[68, 74], 78[78, 84, 84] sts remain.

Continue in patt until work measures 13[14, 15] 16[17, 18, 19] inches (armhole measures 5.5[6, 6.5], 7[7.5, 8, 8] inches), ending with a RS row.

Next row (WS): *p3, p2tog* across to last 1[3, 4], 3[3, 4, 4] sts, p to end. BO all sts.

FRONT: work as for back until armhole measures 3.5[4, 4], 4.5[4.5, 5, 5.25] inches, ending with RS row.
Next row (WS): p 25[22, 25], 26[26, 27, 27] sts, work *p3, p2tog* 3[4, 4], 5[5, 6, 6] times, p across.
Next row (RS): p 25[22, 25], 26[27, 27, 27], place sts just worked onto stitch holder, BO next 13[20, 20], 21[21, 24, 24]sts, p across.

Note: While working neckline shaping for Right Shoulder, when working Row 1 of Random Cable Pattern, count the sts on your left needle after working the decrease in that row. If there is an odd number of sts on your left needle, k1 before rolling your die, ie. you should only begin working cables if there is an even number of sts on your left needle.

Right Shoulder:
Decrease one stitch at neck edge every other row 2[5, 5], 6[5, 5, 5] times and every 4th row 2[1, 1], 1[2, 2, 2] times. Continue in patt until work measures 13[14, 15] 16[17, 18, 19] inches, ending with a RS row: 21[16, 19], 19[19, 20, 20] sts rem.
Next row (WS): work *p3, p2tog* to last 1[1, 4], 4[4, 0, 0] sts, p across. BO all sts.

Left Shoulder:
Note: instructions are written for both a standard crew neck and for a button shoulder for sizes 2, 4 and 6. Please follow only one set of instructions.
Crew neck: Replace held sts on needle with WS facing, rejoin yarn. Work neck shaping as for right shoulder, reversing all shaping.

Optional Button Shoulder (sizes 2, 4 and 6 only): Replace held sts on needle with WS facing, rejoin yarn. Decrease one st at neck edge every other row 3[4, 5] times, ending with RS row.
Next row (WS): work *p3, p2tog* across to last 0[2, 4] sts, p to end. BO all sts.

SLEEVES (make 2)
With smaller needles, co 32[36, 38], 40[40, 42, 42] sts and work 10[12, 12], 12[14, 14, 14] rows in k1p1 rib.

Next row (RS): using larger needles, k across, increasing 10[8, 8], 8[8, 8, 10] sts evenly across for a total of 42[44, 46], 48[48, 50, 52] sts. P 1 row.
Next row (RS): k2, m1, place marker, work Row 1 of Random Cable Pattern to last 2 sts, m1, k2.
While working sleeve shaping, when working Row 1 of Random Cable Pattern, count number of sts before marker, after working increase. If the number of sts is odd, k1 before rolling the die. If the marker ends up in the middle of a cable twist later on, remove it, then replace it after working the cable twist.

Sleeve shaping: Increase every 4th row 0[0, 2], 1[5, 6, 6] times, then every 6th row 2[6, 10, 12[11, 12, 13] times, then every 8th row 6[4, 0], 0[0, 0, 0] times for a total of 58[64, 70], 74[80, 86, 86] sts. Work in patt until piece measures 12.25[13.5, 14], 15.25[17, 18.75, 19.75] ins, ending with a RS row.
Next row (WS): work *p3, p2tog* across to last 3[4, 0], 4[0, 1, 1] sts, p to end. BO all sts.

FINISHING
Block all pieces to measurements.

Weave shoulder seams. Sew in sleeves. Sew underarm and side seam. Using dpns, with right side facing, begin at left front neck and pick up 6[7, 8], 8[9, 9, 9] sts along left neck edge, 14[20, 20], 22[22, 24, 24] sts along front neck, 6[7, 8], 8[9, 9, 9] sts along right neck edge and 28[30, 30], 34[34, 36, 36] sts along back neck for a total of 54[64, 66], 72[74, 78, 78] sts. Work 10[12, 12], 14[14, 14, 16] rows of k1p1 ribbing. Bind off all stitches loosely.

Weave in ends.

Jewel-Tone Baby Blanket

This little blanket is one of my favourite things that I made for my little guy before he was born. It is knit in small, portable stockinette-stitch squares and trimmed with attached I-cord.

Finished size: aprx. 37 x 25 ins

Materials: 8 balls patons decor (75% acrylic, 25% wool, 3.5 oz/100g and 210 yd/193 m to the ball): 2 balls Rich Aqua (green), 2 balls Country Blue (light blue), 2 balls Rich Country Blue (dark blue), 1 ball Deep Burgundy, 1 ball King's Corner Variegated. I used very little of the 2nd balls of green, light blue and dark blue. One ball of a 6th colour would do instead.

1 set 4.5mm straight needles
2 4.5mm dpn's (for I-cord)
1/2 yard of co-ordinating flanellette fabric (optional)

Gauge: 20 sts and 26 rows = 4 ins

Attached I-cord: (this may not be the conventional way to work attached I-cord, but this is the stitch I used to trim this blanket, so here it is)

Row 1 - Cast on 3 stitches on dpn's. Knit 3 stitches, then pick up one stitch from side of blanket and knit this stitch.
Row 2 - Slide all stitches to the other end of the dpn (do not turn the needle) and knit 3 stitches. slide 4th stitch to right-hand needle. Pick up one stitch from the blanket with the left needle and knit this stitch. Pass slipped stitch over.
Work row 2 over and over and over again, picking up one stitch for every two rows (or whatever ratio you need to keep the I-cord from stretching or puckering the blanket) until you reach a corner of the blanket. "Pick up" the same stitch a couple of times so that you work a few extra rows to make the I-cord turn the corner. Then work row 2 agan and again and again....

Directions
Stockinette stitch square: Cast on 20 stitches. Work 26 rows. Bind off all stitches.

Make 11 squares in green, 11 in dark blue, 9 in light blue, 7 in burgundy, 6 in variegated and 10 squares in stripes of randomly chosen colours, for a total of 54 squares.

Finishing:
Lay out squares so that every other square is vertical and every other square is horizontal. Sew squares together. Block. Using dpn's and variegated yarn (or colour of your choice) work 4 stitches of attached I-cord (see above) all the way around. Graft ends of I-cord together. Sew co-ordinating fabric to back of blanket if desired.

Big Chaos

This sweater is the adult version of Chaos, a baby sweater on Knitty.com

New to cables? Want to do a fantastic, all-over cable pattern but feel intimidated by following a complicated chart? This pullover has a striking, all-over cable pattern with no chart at all. Instead, this sweater is covered in a chaotic, random cable pattern generated by rolling dice - great fun for a little (or big) helper! This oversized sweater has an extra-wide neck at the request of my husband. Instructions for a regular crew neck are also included. Big Chaos is knit with two strands of worsted-weight yarn held together throughout.

Read about the origins of the random cable pattern at Mary Griffin’s website here: http://www.cl.cam.ac.uk/~pr/miscellaneous/stochastic.html

SIZE: S(M, L, XL, XXL)

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
Chest: 48(52, 56, 60, 64) inches
Length: 22(23, 24, 25, 26) inches

MATERIALS
Red Heart Comfort 3(3, 3, 4, 4) 16oz/454g and 930 yd/850m per ball
6.5mm straight needles
5.5mm straight needles
5.5mm 16" circular needle (or 5.5mm dpn’s)
cable needle
1 (or more) die/dice
stitch markers
stitch holder
darning needle

GAUGE
12.5 sts/ 17 rows = 4" in stockinette stitch
17 sts/ 17 rows = 4" in cable pattern

CABLE PATTERN
Row 1 - random cable (see below for details)
Row 2 - purl
Row 3 - knit
Row 4 - purl

Row 1 of Random Cable
K2 sts to begin the row. Roll the die. Perform the action corresponding with the number rolled as follows:
If you roll a 1: C4F [slip two stitches to a cable needle and hold cable needle in front of the work, knit two stitches from the left needle, knit the two stitches from the cable needle]
If you roll a 2: C4B [slip two stitches to a cable needle and hold cable needle at back of the work, knit two stitches from the left needle, knit the two stitches from the cable needle]
If you roll a 3: K2
If you roll a 4: K2
If you roll a 5: roll again
If you roll a 6: roll again
Keep rolling and performing the according action until all but the last 2 sts are worked. K the last 2 sts.

Note 1: the first and last two sts of every row are knit. If you roll a 1 or 2 with four or less stitches left in the row, ignore the roll, and knit the last stitches.
Note 2: It may be necessary to ‘cheat’ a little if you get a large or small number of cables in succession. If your knitted fabric was infinitely large, any cluster of cable stitches would be balanced out in the long run by clusters of knit stitches. But since this sweater is made using a limited number of stitches, especially when dividing for the neck, you may need to ignore or insert a cable to keep the fabric fairly flat and even. For example, if you roll 1-1-1-1, you may change this to 1-1-3-3-1. Or if you roll 3-3-4-4-3-3 you may change this to 3-3-2-3-3. However, don’t give in to the temptation to ‘cheat’ too often (more than once per row or so) or you may compromise the randomness of the pattern.

DIRECTIONS
Back
Using smaller needles, CO 76(82, 88, 94, 100) sts. Work k2 p2 rib for 4 rows (all sizes).
Next row (RS): Change to larger needles and stockinette stitch. Inc 26(28, 30, 34, 36) sts evenly across for a total of 102(110, 118, 128, 136) sts.
Next row (WS): P across
Next row (RS): Begin random cable pattern by working row 1 of cable pattern.
Continue in patt until piece measures 13(13.5, 14, 14.5, 15) ins.
At beg of next 2 rows, BO 4(6, 6, 8, 8) sts, working k2tog (RS; p2tog on WS) 1(2, 2, 2, 2)times during binding off for armhole. Continue in patt until armhole measures 9(9.5, 10, 10.5, 11) ins. BO all sts, working k2tog every 4th stitch of binding off.

Front
Work as for back until armhole measures 5.5 (6, 6.5, 7, 7.5) ins. Instructions follow for both boat neck and crew neck. Remember to work only one set of instructions.

Extra-wide neck
Begin to divide for neck as follows: k 18(20, 24, 29, 31) sts, ssk, k1. Place sts just worked onto stitch holder. BO 52(52, 52, 52, 52) sts, working k2tog every 4th stitch during binding off, k1, k2tog, k 18(20, 24, 29, 31) sts. Working right side only, dec 1 st every other row 5(5, 5, 6, 6) times more, working decrease one st in from neck edge. Work in patt until piece measures same length as back. BO all sts, working k2tog every 4th st of binding off.
Pick up stitches from stitch holder and work left side of neck, reversing all shaping. Work in patt until piece measures same length as back. BO all sts, working k2tog every 4th st of binding off.

Standard Crew Neck
Begin to divide for neck as follows: k 32(34, 38, 43, 45) sts, ssk, k1. Place sts just worked onto stitch holder. BO 24(24, 24, 24, 24) sts, working k2tog every 4th stitch during binding off, k1, k2tog, k 32(34, 38, 43, 45) sts. Working right side only, dec 1 st every other row 5(5, 5, 6, 6) times more, working decrease one st in from neck edge. Work in patt until piece measures same length as back. BO all sts, working k2tog every 4th st of binding off.

Pick up stitches from stitch holder and work left side of neck, reversing all shaping. Work in patt until piece measures same length as back. BO all sts, working k2tog every 4th st of binding off.

Optional Note (for both boat and crew necks): When working left side of front neck, if you have an odd number of sts on the needles (after working any decreases) when working row 1 of patt, k1 instead of k2 at beg of row to ensure that your cables line up. If you don’t mind the look of cables that don’t quite line up, work in patt as previously established.

Sleeve (make 2)
Using smaller needles, CO 28(30, 30, 32, 34) sts. Work k2 p2 rib for 4 rows (all sizes).
Next row (RS): Change to larger needles and stockinette stitch. Inc 10(10, 12, 12, 12) sts evenly across for a total of 38(40, 42, 44, 46) sts.
Next row (WS) P across
Next row (RS): Begin random cable pattern by working row 1 of pattern. At the same time, inc one st at each end of needle. Work in patt and inc every other row 3(3, 3, 3, 3) times and every 4th row 16(17, 18, 20, 21) times for a total of 76(80. 84, 90, 94) sts. Work even until piece measures 17.5(18.75, 20, 21.25, 22.5) ins. BO all sts, working k2tog every 4th st of binding off.

Optional note: When working row 1 of patt, if the number of sts on the needle is divisible by 4 (before working any increases) ie. 24, 28, 32, 36, 40, etc. , k1 instead of k2 at the beg of the row to ensure that your cables line up. If you don’t mind the look of cables that don’t quite line up, work in patt as previously established.

FINISHING
Block all pieces to measurements.
Sew shoulder seams.

Neckband - instructions follow for both boat neck and crew neck. Remember to work only one set of instructions.

Extra-wide Neck
With circular needle (or dpn’s) and RS facing, PU and K 9(9, 9, 9, 9) sts from left front neck, 40(40, 40, 40, 40) sts from center front neck, 9(9, 9, 9, 9) sts from right front neck and 44(44, 46, 46, 48) sts from back neck for a total of 102(102, 104, 104, 108) sts. Size small only: decrease two stitches evenly across during first round. Size Medium only: increase two stitches evenly across during first round Working in the round, work 4 rows K2P2 rib. Bind off all stitches extremely loosely.

Standard Crew Neck
With circular needle (or dpn’s) and RS facing, PU and K 9 sts from left front neck, 18(18, 18, 18, 18) sts from center front neck, 9 sts from right front neck and 24(24, 26, 26, 28) sts from back neck for a total of 60(60, 62, 62, 64) sts. Size Large only: decrease two stitches evenly across during first round. Size Extra-Large only: increase two stitches evenly across during first round. Working in the round, work 4 rows K2P2 rib. Bind off all stitches extremely loosely.

Both necklines: Sew sleeves to sweater. Weave underarm and side seams. Weave in ends.

Big Chaos

Cables & Wide Ribs Cardigan

I had just finished making a stockinette-stitch sweater with fine-gauge wool when I designed this sweater as the antithesis to that project. This sweater was quick to knit and is warm and cozy to wear.

Materials: 5 balls of Paton's Shetland Chunky (3.5 oz/100 g per ball) [with just about nuthin' left over], 5.5 and 6.0 mm straight needles, cable needle, 18 inch zipper

Size: women's size small (finished measurements: chest 32", length 22", sleeve 19")

Gauge: 14 sts and 20 rows = 4 ins in stockinette stitch

Abbreviations:
-c6f - slip 3 sts to cable needle, hold in front of work, k3 sts from left needle, k3 sts from cable needle
-W&T - wrap and turn: bring the strand of yarn you would use to knit the next stitch to the front, slip the next stitch as if to purl, bring yarn to the back and slip the stitch back onto the left needle. Turn your work.
-RS - right side
-WS - wrong side

Directions

Back: CO 56 sts on 5.5 mm needles. Work p2, k4 rib across to last 2 sts. P2. Work 3 more rows of rib as established.
Next row (RS)- change to 6.0 mm needles. *p2, k2, p2, k1, kfb, kfb, k1* across to last 8 sts. P2, k4, p2.
Next row (WS) - k the k sts and p the p sts.
Next row (RS) - *p2, k2, p2, c6f* across to last 8 sts. p2, k4, p2.
Working in rib as established, work cable every 6th row until piece measures aprx. 14 " in length, ending on 4th row of cable.
Shape armhole as follows - Bind off 3 sts at beginning of next 2 rows, then decrease one st at each side every row 4 times (50 sts). Work even to 7.5 ins.
Begin shoulder shaping: Work across pattern to 6 sts rem, W&T, work across to 6 sts rem, W&T, work across to 10 sts rem, W&T, work across to 10 sts rem, W&T, work across to 14 sts rem, W&T, work across to 14 sts rem, W&T, work across, picking up wraps and knitting them together with the stitches they are wrapped around as you encounter them. Work across next row (WS), picking up wraps and knitting (for knit sts, purling for purl sts) them together with the stitches they are wrapped around as you encounter them. Bind off all sts, working k2tog twice when binding off cables.

Right Front: CO 28 sts on 5.5 mm needles. K2, p2, then work *k4, p2* rib across. Work as back until armholes measure 3.5 ins.
Begin neck shaping as follows: Bind off 4 sts at beginning of next RS row, 3 sts at beginning of following RS row, then decrease one sts at beginning of every other row five times.
When piece measures same length as back, work shoulder shaping as follows: Work in pattern to 6 sts rem, W&T, work to end of row.
Next row: work in pattern to 10 sts rem, W&T, work to end of row.
Next row (RS): Work across row, picking up wraps and knitting (for knit sts, purling for purl sts) them together with the stitches they are wrapped around as you encounter them. Next row (WS): work across in pattern.
Next row (RS): Bind off all sts, working k2tog twice when binding off cable (k6) panels.

Left front: work as for right front, reversing all shaping.

Sleeve (make 2)
Cast on 24 sts on 5.5 mm needles. K2, p2, work across in *k4, p2* rib to last 2 sts. K2. Work 3 more rows in rib as established.
Next row: change to 6.0 mm needles. k2, p2, k1, kfb, kfb, k1, p2, k4, p2, k1, kfb, kfb, k1, p2, k2.
Next row (WS): work in rib pattern as established.
Next row (RS): k1, kfb, p2, c6f, p2, k4, p2, c6f, p2, kfb, k1.
Work in rib pattern as established, working c6f every 6th row.
At the same time, increase one stitch in pattern at each end of the needle every 6th row 7 times and every 8th row 5 times. Work in pattern until piece measures 19 inches in length.
Cap sleeve shaping: BO 3 sts at beg of next 2 rows. Decrease 1 st at each end of needle every row 3 times, every other row once, every 4th row 3 times, every other row 3 times, every row 3 times. BO remaining 16 sts.

Finishing
Sewn-on Collar: CO 6 sts on 6.0 mm needles.
Row 1 - p1, k4, p1
Row 2 - k1, p4, k1
Row 3 - slip 1, k1, kfb, kfb, k1, p1
Row 4 - slip 1, p6, k1
Row 5 - slip 1, c6f, p1
Row 6 - slip 1, p6, k1
Row 7 - slip 1, k6, p1
Row 8 - slip 1, p6, k1
Row 9 - slip 1, k6, p1
Row 10 - slip 1, p6, k1
Repeat rows 5-10 until piece measures aprx. 14 ins in length and fits, ever-so-slightly-stretched, from right front neck edge, around back neck, to left front neck edge. Bind off and sew in place.

Block all pieces if desired.
Sew shoulder seams. Sew in sleeves. Sew underarm and side seams.
Sew in zipper as best you can figure. I pinned my zipper in place, hand-sewed it, then machine sewed it to make sure it was secure.

Ribbed Toque

This hat is quick and easy to knit, warm and comfortable to wear, and is my most requested knitted item. I've made a zillion (approximately) of these hats. Every year my husband distributes (loses) a few more of these hats at construction sites all over the province.

An infant-sized toque (under 6 months of age) can be made by working with one strand of yarn and 4.5 mm dpn's for 5 ins, then decreasing as below.

Materials: 120g worsted-weight yarn, 6.5mm dpn's (one 100g ball is not quite enough - a few rows of another colour makes a nice accent and makes up the yarn you need)

Gauge: 14 sts to 4ins in Stockinette Stitch with 2 strands of yarn held together.

Directions
With two strands of yarn held together, cast on 70 sts. Working in the round, work K3, P2 rib for 8 ins/32 rows. Work decreases as follows:
-*K2tog, K1, P2, K3, P2*. Work 2 rows, knitting the k sts and purling the p sts (63 sts)
-*k2, p2, k2tog, k1, p2* around. Work 2 rows as above (56 sts)
-*k2, p2tog, k2, p2* around. Work 2 rows as above (49 sts)
-*k2, p1, k2, p2tog* around. Work 2 rows as above. (42 sts)
-*k2tog, p1, k2, p1* around. Work 1 row as above (35 sts)
-*k1, p1, k2tog* around (28 sts)
-*k2tog, k2* around (21 sts)
-*k1, k2tog* around (14 sts)
-*k2tog* around (7 sts).
Break yarn and pull through remaining 7 sts. Weave in ends.

Some other hats made in variations on this pattern...using k2p2 rib, I think.

Cable-Brim Hat:

Materials: 1 ball Paton's Shetland Chunky

Gauge: 14 st and 20 rows = 4 inches on 6.0mm dpn's

I didn't write down the pattern for this hat at the time of making it and have since given away this hat, but the pattern goes something like this:

CO enough stitches for your favourite cable pattern, plus two stitches for one slipped stitch at the beginning of every row. Work cable pattern until the band goes around your head. Cast off and sew ends of band together. Pick up one stitch for every slipped stitch around the band on dpn's. Let's say it worked out to be a multiple of 6 stitches (60 or 66 or 54 or something). Work in the round until hat measures about five inches long.

Decrease: *K4, k2 tog* around. Work 1 row even.
*K3, k2 tog* around. Work 1 row even.
*K2, k2tog* around. Work 1 row even.
*K1, k2tog* around.
*K2tog* around. Break yarn, pull through remaining stitches and weave in all ends.

Black k3p3 rib Toque (in photo of 4 hats):

Materials: 2 balls (50 g/60 yd) Lion Brand Kool Wool (50% merino, 50% acrylic)

6.0 mm dpn's

Gauge: 13 st and 19 rows = 4 inches in stockinette stitch

Directions:

Cast on 66 stitches on dpn's. Work in k3p3 rib for 8.5 inches.

Decrease as follows:

Row 1 - (k3, p2tog, p1) around

Row 2 - work even (k the k's, and p the p's)

Row 3 - (k2tog, k1, pw) around

Row 4 - work even

Row 5 (k2, p2tog) around

Row 6 - work even

Row 7 - (k2tog, p1) around

Row 8 - Work even

Row 9 - k2tog across (11 sts remain).

Break yarn, thread through remaining stitches and pull tight. Weave end through any remaining hole.