Felted Cloche Pattern

Size:
-Pre-felting: aprx. 22" circumerence and 12" length (including brim)
-After felting: aprx. 21" circumference and 8" length (including brim)

Materials:

-Briggs & Little Heritage - 100 % wool, 215 yd/196m per 4 oz/113 g ball; Colour 41 (Navy Blue), 2 balls (aprx. 6.75 oz / 190 g / 365 yd / 333 m) per hat
-1 set of US #9/5.5mm dpns
-1 US #9/5.5mm circular needle, 24" length or less (optional)

Gauge: 15 sts and 23 rows = 4 in/10 cm on 5.5 mm needles (Note - to facilitate felting, the hat is knit at a looser gauge than the 17 stitches to 4 in/10cm recommended on the ball band).

Directions: Using dpns or circular needle, cast on 100 stitches. Mark beginning of round. Work in stockinette stitch* in the round until work measures 2.5 inches.

*Note - if you don't like the little roll on the brim of the hat, work the brim in garter stitch instead of stockinette.

Hat with garter stitch brim:

Next row: K3, k2tog around - 80 stitches remain. Continue working in stockinette stitch, in the round, until work measures 8.5 inches from the beginning.

Begin crown shaping:

Row 1 - *k8, k2tog* around.

Row 2 and 3 - k around.

Row 4 - *k7, k2tog* around.

Row 5 and 6 - k around.

Row 7 - *k6, k2tog* around.

Row 8 - k around.

Row 9 - *k5, k2tog* around.

Row 10 - k around.

Row 11 - *k4, k2tog* around.

Row 12 - k around.

Row 13 - *k3, k2tog* around.

Row 14 - *k2, k2tog* around.

Row 15 - *k1, k2tog* around.

Row 16 - *k2tog* around.

Break yarn and pull through remaining 8 stitches.Weave in ends.

Hat pre-felting (on a phone book for scale):

Felting: Put the hat in a lingierie bag or an old pillow-case and put it in the washing machine with a little soap and some old clothes for friction (I used dark-coloured clothes in case the dye from this dark-coloured hat ran), on hot water setting. Check hat frequently. Throw it in the washing machine again if it isn't small enough yet - I had to send my hat through four times.

Hat after felting (on the same phone book):

A family history of the cloche:

From left to right: my grandmother, great-grandmother, and my great-aunt have come from Saskatoon, Saskatchewan to Montreal, Quebec in May of 1929 and worn their fashionable hats while visiting the big city!

Little Rugged Raglan

A little boy's raglan pullover made with a hard-wearing but soft-to-the-touch acrylic/cotton yarn in a rugged grey and white mix with bright red accent stripes at the cuffs, hem, collar and front pocket. Pattern includes a matching ribbed hat and scarf.

Sweater in photos is size 6 (worn by a size 4 boy). 4 balls of yarn made the sweater (size 6), hat (size 6-8) and scarf.

SWEATER

Materials:
MC: Bernat “Denim Style” 70% acrylic / 30% cotton, 3.5 oz / 100 g / 196 yd per ball, colour 03044 “Sweatshirt”; 3[3, 3, 3] balls (7.25[8.25, 9.5, 10.25] oz / 207[237, 270, 290] g / 405[465, 530, 567] yds required)
CC: Bernat Super Value 100% acrylic, 7 oz / 197 g / 335 yd per ball, colour Scarlet; 1[1, 1, 1] ball (small amount required)
1 set US #8 / 5.0 mm straight needles or size needed to get gauge.
1 set of 4 or 5 US #8 / 5.0 mm dpns or size needed to get gauge.
Contrasting thread or thin yarn.
Darning Needle

Size: Boy’s 2[4, 6, 8]

Measurements: Finished Chest: 28[30, 32, 33.5] inches; 70[75, 80, 84] cm
Finished Length: 14[14.5, 15.75, 18] inches; 35[37.5, 40, 45 cm]

Gauge: 15 stitches and 20 rows = 4 inches / 10 cm in stockinette stitch
18 stitches and 20 rows = 4 inches / 10 cm in k2p2 rib, slightly stretched

Abbreviations:
K – knit
P - purl
RS – Right Side
WS – Wrong Side
MC – Main Colour
CC – Contrast Colour
St(s) – Stitch / stitches
Patt. - pattern
Kfb – knit into front and back of stitch
K2tog – knit two together
K2p2 rib: k2, p2 across RS row, then work p2, k2 across the WS rows.

Directions:

Back:
Using straight needles and MC, cast on 60 [64, 68, 72] stitches. Work in k2p2 rib for 4[4, 4, 4] rows. Change to CC and work 2 rows. Change back to MC and work 6[6, 8, 8] more rows for a total of 12[12, 14, 14] rows of ribbing, ending on WS row.
Next row (RS): Begin working in stockinette stitch and decrease 8[8, 8, 10] stitches evenly across (52[56, 60, 62] stitches remain). Work even until piece measures 6[6.5, 7, 9] inches (15[16, 17.5, 22.5] cm), ending with a WS row.
Next row (RS): K 1, k2tog, k across to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1.
Next row (WS): P across.
Repeat these two rows until 12[14,16,16] sts remain. Bind off all stitches.

Front: Work as for back.

Sleeves (make two):
Using straight needles and MC, cast on 30[30, 34, 34] stitches. Work 4 rows in k2p2 rib. Change to CC and work two rows. Change back to MC and work 6[6, 8, 8] more rows for a total of 12[12, 14, 14] rows of ribbing, ending on WS row.
Next row (RS): Begin working in stockinette stitch and decrease 4 [4, 4, 4] sts evenly across. P next row.
Next row (RS): K1, kfb, k across to last 2 sts, kfb, k1. Repeat increase row every other row 6[3, 1, 2] times more, then increase every 4th row 4[8, 10, 10] times for a total of 48[50, 54, 56] stitches. Work even until sleeve measures 8.5[10.5, 11.5, 12.5] inches (21[26, 29, 31] cm), ending with a WS row.
Next row (RS): K1, k2tog, work across to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1.
Next row (WS): p across.
Repeat these two rows until 8[8, 10, 10] sts remain. Bind off all stitches.

Neckband:
Sew sleeves to front and back along raglan armholes. Using dpns and MC, begin at right side of front neck and pick up and knit 12[14, 16, 16] sts from front neck, 8[8, 10, 10] stitches from right sleeve, 12[14, 16, 16] sts from back neck, and 8[8, 10, 10] stitches from left sleeve for a total of 40[44, 52, 52] sts. Working in the round, work 4 rows of k2p2 rib. Change to CC and work two rows. Change back to MC and work 2 more rows for a total of 8 rows. Bind off all stitches very loosely.

Pocket:
Using darning needle and contrasting thread or thin yarn, mark the center 30[32, 34, 36] sts of front of sweater approximately 9 rows up from the beginning of stockinette-stitch. Using MC and straight needles, pick up and knit these 30[32, 34, 36] stitches.
Next row (WS): slip 1st st purl-wise and p across.
Next row (RS): slip 1st st purl-wise, k1, k2tog, k across to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1.
Next row (WS): slip 1st st purl-wise and p across.
Change to CC and repeat last two rows.
Change back to MC and repeat last two rows until 20[22, 24, 26] sts remain. Bind off all sts. Sew top of pocket to sweater.

Finishing: Sew underarm seams. Weave in all ends. Wash and lay flat to dry.

HAT

MC: Bernat “Denim Style” 70% acrylic / 30% cotton, 196 yd / 100g / ball, colour 03044 “Sweatshirt”; 1[1] ball (2[2.5] / 55[70] g / 106[135] yds required)
CC: Bernat Super Value 100% acrylic, 7 oz / 225 g / 335 yd / ball, colour Scarlet; 1[1, 1, 1] ball (small amount required)

Size: 2-4[6-8]
Finished Circumference: 16[17.5] inches / 40 cm [44 cm] – hat will stretch several inches wider.

Directions: Using MC and dpns, cast on 72[80] stitches. Work in k2p2 rib in the round for 4 rows. Change to CC and work 2 rows. Change back to MC and work until piece measures 8[9] inches (20[22.5] cm).
Begin crown shaping:
Round 1: *Work 6 sts in patt. K2tog (or p2tog)* around
Round 2: Work in patt.
Round 3: *Work 5 sts in patt. K2tog (or p2tog)* around
Round 4: Work in patt.
Round 5: *Work 4 sts in patt. K2tog (or p2tog)* around
Round 6: Work in patt.
Round 7: *Work 3 sts in patt. K2tog (or p2tog)* around
Round 8: Work in patt.
Round 9: *Work 2 sts. in patt. K2tog (or p2tog)* around
Round 10. *Work 1 st in patt. K2tog (or p2tog)* around
Round 11: K2tog around.

Break yarn, draw through all remaining stitches and pull snugly. Weave in all ends. Wash and lay flat to dry.

SCARF

Materials: MC: Bernat “Denim Style” 70% acrylic / 30% cotton, 196 yd / 100g / ball, colour 03044 “Sweatshirt”; 1 ball; (2.8 oz / 80 g / 158 yds required)
CC: Bernat Super Value 100% acrylic, 7 oz / 225 g / 335 yd / ball, colour Scarlet; 1 ball; (small amount required)

Size: Child - One size
Finished Measurements: 4 inches (10 cm) wide by 48 inches (120 cm) long.

Rib pattern:
Row 1 (RS): Slip 1 purlwise, *k2p2* across to last 3 stitches, k3.
Row 2 (WS): Slip 1 purlwise, *p2k2* across to last 3 stitches, p3

Directions: With MC and straight needles, cast on 22 stitches. Work 4 rows in patt.
Change to CC and work 2 rows.
Change back to MC and work until piece measures 46.5 inches (116 cm), or 1.5 inches (4 cm) less than desired length.
Change to CC and work 2 rows.
Change back to MC and work 4 rows. Bind off all stitches.
Weave in all ends. Wash and lay flat to dry.

Bunny Hat

Size: infant (toddler or small child)

Finished Measurements: 14 in / 35 cm ( 17 in / 42 cm) circumference

Materials:

-Baby Clouds (6 0z /170g /140 yd per ball) yarn in white - 50 g / 1.75 oz / 42 yd needed

-US size 11 / 8.0 mm straight needles

- darning needle

Gauge: 10 sts = 4 inches / 10 cm

Directions:

Cast on 36 (42) stitches. Work in garter stitch for 3.5 in / 9 cm (4 in / 10 cm).

Begin decreasing for the crown:

Row 1 - k4, k2tog across.

Row 2 - k across

Row 3 - k3, k2tog across.

Row 4 - k across.

Row 5 - k2, k2tog across.

Row 6 - k across.

Row 7 - k1, k2tog across.

Row 8 - k across.

Row 9 - k2tog across.

Break yarn. Draw yarn through remaining stitches and pull snugly. Sew back seam of hat.

Ears (make 2): Cast on 2 stitches. K 1 row.

Next row: Kfb twice. Work in garter stitch on these 4 stitches until piece measures 3.5 inches / 9 cm. Bind off.

Finishing. Sew ears to top of hat. Weave in ends. Block as desired (I washed the hat and let it dry standing up).

S(p)ock

Got left-over sock yarn? Looking for something to knit while watching your favorite Sci-Fi or Fantasy movies? How about your own set of pointy ears!

The ears are knit from the lobes up with short-rows shaping the front and back of the tip. Stitches are then picked up around the sides and bottom of the ear to form the “cuff.” Left and right ears are knit the same; they are simply embroidered on opposite sides.

After some research (OK, I wore the ears around the house for a while), I learned that the ears stay on well enough by themselves, but if they are to be worn for a long time, or by children, affixing the ears with a little double-sided tape may be good insurance.

SIZE
Small (older child or small adult) [Large (adult)]

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
Length: 3.5 ins / 9 cm
Width: 1.75 ins / 4.5 cm

MATERIALS
[MC] Scheepjes Invicta Extra [75% wool, 25% polyamide-nylon; 218 yd/200 m per 50g skein]; color: 1415 (fawn); 1 skein - a pair of ears uses approximately 8 g/35 yd/32 m of yarn
[CC] Scheepjes Invicta Extra [75% wool, 25% polyamide-nylon; 218 yd/200 m per 50g skein];color: 1419 (chocolate); one yd/m

1 set US #1/2.25mm double-point needles
1 set US #1/2.25 mm straight needles (optional – you may also work back-and-forth on dpn’s)

darning needle

GAUGE
40 sts/56 rows = 4" in stockinette stitch

PATTERN
CO 12 sts on US #1/2.25mm straight needles using long-tail cast-on.
Next row [WS]: P across
Next row [RS]: K1, inc 1 st, k across to last st, inc 1 st, k1. Repeat increase row every other row until there are 26 sts. Work 3 rows even, ending on WS row.
Next row [RS]: K1, sl 1, k1, psso, k across to last 3 sts, ssk, k1. Repeat this decrease row every 4th row until 16 sts remain. Work 1 row even, ending on a WS row.

Begin short-row shaping:
Next row [RS]: K across to last st, w&t, p across to last st, w&t. K across to second-last st, w&t, p across to second-last st, w&t. Continue in this manner until all but two sts have been wrapped, ending on a WS row.
Next row [RS]: K to first wrap, pick up wrap and knit together with the stitch it is wrapped around, wrap next stitch (there will now be two wraps around this st) and turn work. P to the next wrapped stitch, pick up the wrap and purl it together with the stitch it is wrapped around, wrap the next stitch (which will also now have two wraps), turn work.
K across to first double-wrapped stitch, pick up and k both wraps with their stitch, w&t, p across to next double-wrapped stitch, pick up and p both wraps with their stitch, w&t. Continue in this manner until all stitches have been worked, ending with a WS row.

Pick Up Stitches for “Cuff”: If using straight needles, transfer all 16 sts to a dpn.
With RS facing and using dpn’s, beginning to the left of the leftmost live stitch, pu and k 12 sts along left side of ear between beginning point and last increase on LHS of ear; pu and k 20 sts along bottom of ear between last increase on LHS of ear and last increase on RHS of ear, and pu 12 sts along RHS of ear between last increase on RHS and rightmost live stitch. There are now a total of 60 stitches.

Size Small Only:
Working in the round, work 1 row in stockinette stitch.
Next row: K 13, k2tog around (56 sts).
Next row: Work even.
Next row: K 12, k2tog around (52 sts).
Next row: Work even.
Begin k2p2 rib and work 4 rows of ribbing.

Size Large Only:
Working in the round, work 4 rows in stockinette stitch.
Begin k2p2 rib and work 4 rows of ribbing.

All sizes: Bind off all stitches loosely, but less loosely than you would bind off a sock top. The ribbing should not flare out along the bound-off row.


FINISHING
Using darning needle and CC, backstitch ear detail as in picture.
Weave in all ends. Wash, shape and lay face-down to dry (stuff while drying if necesary)

Jacana Shawl

This is a warm, simple shawl that works up quickly on 5.0 mm needles. It has a garter stitch border, yarn-over increases at either end, and is embellished with a simple lozenge lace pattern on a stockinette stitch background. It also has a drawstring around the top edge to keep the shawl delicately in place.

Materials:
-3x 50 g Bouquet Jacana, 70% acrylic, 30% mohair (no yardage given; aprx. 135 yd/ball)
-5.0 mm circular needle, at least 24” in length (I went up to a 32” needle for the second half of the shawl)

Gauge: aprx. 14 st/ 22 rows to 4 inches/10 cm (gauge is not critical for this project!)

Finished Measurement: aprx. 54 inches wide and 33 inches long at the point.

Lozenge Lace Pattern: (from “The Ultimate Sourcebook of Knitting and Crochet Stitches”)

1st row: k3, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, sl 1, k1, psso, k3.
2nd and every alt row: purl
3rd row: k2, k2tog, yo, k3, yo, sl 1, k1, psso, k2.
5th row: k1, k2tog, yo, k5, yo, sl 1, k1, psso, k1.
7th row: k2tog, yo, k7, yo, sl 1, k1, psso.
9th row (RS): k1, yo, sl 1, k1 psso, k5, k2tog, yo, k1.
11th row : k2,yo, sl 1, k1, psso, k3, k2tog, yo, k2.
13th row: k3, yo, sl 1, k1, psso, k1, k2tog, yo, k3.
15th row: k4, yo, sl 1, k2tog, psso, yo, k4.
16th row: purl

Repeat these 16 rows.


Directions:
CO 5 sts.
Next row (WS): k2, p1, k2
Next row (RS): k2, yo, k1, yo, k2
Next row (WS): k2, p across to last 2 sts, k2
Next row (RS): k2, yo, k across to last 2 sts, yo, k2
Next row (WS): k2, p across to last 2 sts, k2.

Repeat last 2 rows until there are 11 stitches between yo’s. Begin lozenge lace pattern (I started the pattern at row 9). Add another repeat on either side when you have enough new stitches. Continue until there are 15 repeats and work to the end of this repeat.
Work 3 rows stockinette stitch.
Next row (WS): k2, (yo, p2tog) across to last 2 sts, k2.
Work 3 more rows stockinette stitch.
Change to garter stitch and knit the next 3 rows. BO loosely (I bound off using a 6.0 mm needle).

Finishing:
Drawstring: Cut three strands of yarn each 120” in length. Braid until drawstring measures 90” or desired length. Thread drawstring through eyelets, leaving about 12” of eyelets open at either end.
Or: Work 3-stitch i-cord until drawstring measures desired length.

Weave in all ends and block.

Side-Ribs Chunky Cardi

This is a fast, easy knit in chunky yarn with very simple shapes. It was inspired by the famous "Ribbi Cardi" but is simpler and in larger yarn (and no, I've never actually seen the pattern, just the pictures). This sweater forms to the body with the use of ribbing at the side of the sweater, but has no increases or decreases to deal with. Just mindless knitting! This pattern is written for sizes S-XXL, shown in size S.

Gauge:
13 st and 19 rows = 4 inches

Measurements: 22.5 inches long from back neck, 19 inches wide with ribbing stretched flat. Sleeves measure 17.75 inches to the armhole

Materials
18 x 50 g (60 yd) balls (for size S) Lion Brand Kool Wool (now discontinued, which may be why I got it so cheap)
6.0 mm needles
Buttons (6 or so, aprx. 0.75 inches in diameter)

Back:
CO 62 (68, 74, 82, 88) sts on 6.0 mm needles. Work k2p2 rib for 12 rows.
Next row (RS): Work 20 (24, 24, 28, 28) sts in k2p2 rib, 22 (20, 26, 26, 32) sts in stockinette stitch, then 20 (24, 24, 28, 28) sts in k2p2 rib. Work in patt until work measures 14 (14.75, 15.5, 16, 16.5) inches long.
Bind off 6 (6, 6, 8, 8) stitches at beginning of next 2 rows for armhole shaping. Work in patt for 8.5 (8.75, 9, 9.5, 10) inches, ending with a WS row.
Shoulder shaping: K across to 7 (8, 9, 10, 11) sts remaining, wrap yarn around next stitch and turn work (W&T). Work across to 7 (8, 9, 10, 11) sts remaining at other end of needle, W&T. K across to 14 (16, 18, 20, 22) sts rem., W&T, k across to 14 (16, 18, 20, 22) sts rem., W&T. K to end of row.
Next row (WS): BO 14 (16, 18, 20, 22) sts. P across.
Next row (RS): BO 14 (16, 18, 20, 22) sts. K across. Put remaining 22 (24, 26, 26, 28) sts on a stitch holder.

Left Front: CO 32 (34, 38, 42, 45) sts. Work k2p2 rib for 12 rows.
Next row (RS): Work 20 (24, 24, 28, 28) sts in k2p2 rib, then 12 (11, 14, 14, 17) sts in stockinette stitch.
Next row (WS): slip first stitch of this an all WS rows. Work in patt until piece measures 14 (14.75, 15.5, 16, 16.5) inches long, ending with a WS row. BO 6 (6, 6, 8, 8) stitches at beginning of next row.
Work even until armhole measures 6 (6.25, 6.5, 6.5, 6.5) inches, ending with a RS row.
Next row (WS): BO 5 (5, 6, 6, 6) stitches this row, then BO 4 (4, 5, 5, 5) sts at beginning of next WS row, then decrease one stitch at neck edge every other row 2 (3, 2, 3, 3) times. Work even until armhole measures 8.5 (8.75, 9, 9.5, 10) inches, ending with a RS row.
Begin shoulder shaping (WS): P across to last 7(8, 9, 10, 11) sts, W&T, k across to end of row. Turn work, p across to last 14 (16, 18, 20, 22) sts, W&T, k across to end of row. BO all remaining stitches.

Right Front: Work as for left front, reversing all shaping.

Sleeves (make two):
CO 32 (32, 36, 36, 40) sts. Work k2p2 rib for 12 rows, then begin working in stockinette stitch. Increase one stitch at each end of the needle every 6th row (0, 10, 4, 8, 7) times, then every 8th row 10(2, 7, 4, 5) times for a total of 52 (56, 58, 60, 64) sts. Work even until sleeve measures 19.75 (20.25, 20.25, 21.5, 21.75) inches. Bind off all stitches.

Finishing:
Button band: With RS facing, pick up and knit approximately 52 (56, 60, 64, 68) stitches from Left Front. Work 4 rows of k2p2 rib. BO all stitches. Mark locations of buttons on button band, then PU and knit 52 (56, 60, 64, 68) stitches from Right Front. Work 1 row of k2p2 rib, then on the second row, work (yo, k2tog) buttonholes at the locations corresponding to the buttons. Work 2 more rows of k2p2 rib, then BO all stitches.
Weave shoulder seams.

Collar: Pick up approximately 24 (25, 26, 29, 29) sts from Right Front neck, 22 (24, 26, 26, 28) stitches from holder and 24 (25, 26, 29, 29) stitches fron Left Front Neck. Work in k2p2 rib for 6 inches or desired length (on the sweater in the picture, the collar is only about 4 inches long, but I think it's too short). BO all stitches.

Sew in shoulders of sleeves, sew side and underarm seams, sew on buttons and weave in all ends. Oh, and block, if you can wait that long before wearing your new sweater.

Chaos Jr

Chaos Jr.
This is the child and teen sized version of the chaos sweater, published at http://knitty.com/ISSUEwinter05/PATTchaos.html. Chaos Jr a loose-fitting crew-neck pullover, and is written for sizes 2-16.


MATERIALS
Tivoli Woolblend 400 [80% acrylic, 20 % wool; 822 yd/752 m per 400g skein]
Yardage: 530[620, 700], 790[885, 1005, 1090, 1160] yds required; 1[1, 1], 1[2, 2, 2] skeins required

*Chaos knitting requires aprx. 25% more yarn than a stockinette-stitch sweater of the same size.*

1 set US #8/5.0mm straight needles
1 set US #7/4.5mm straight needles
1 set of four US #7/4.5 mm double-point needles.
cable needle
1 (or more) die/dice
stitch markers
stitch holder
darning needle
3 3/8 in/15mm buttons
GAUGE19 sts/24 rows = 4" in stockinette stitch
23 sts/24 rows = 4" in cable pattern

CABLE PATTERN
Row 1 - random cable (see below for details)
Row 2 - purl
Row 3 - knit
Row 4 - purl

Random Cable
K2 sts to begin the row. Roll the die. If you roll a:
1 - C4F [slip two stitches to a cable needle and hold cable needle in front of the work, knit two stitches from the left needle, knit the two stitches from the cable needle]
2 - C4B [slip two stitches to a cable needle and hold cable needle at back of the work, knit two stitches from the left needle, knit the two stitches from the cable needle]
3- K2
4 - K2
5 - roll again
6 - roll again
Keep rolling and performing the according action until all but the last 2 sts are worked. K the last 2 sts.

Note 1: the first and last two sts of every row are knit. If you roll a 1 or 2 with four or less stitches left in the row, ignore the roll, and knit the last stitches.

Note 2: It may be necessary to ‘cheat’ a little if you get a large or small number of cables in succession. If your knitted fabric was infinitely large, any cluster of cable stitches would be balanced out by clusters of knit stitches in the long run. But since this sweater is made using a limited number of stitches, especially when you divide for the neck, you may need to ignore or insert a cable to keep the fabric fairly flat and even. For example, if you roll 1-1-1-1, you may change this to 1-1-3-3-1. Or if you roll 3-3-4-4-3-3 you may change this to 3-3-2-3-3. However, don’t give in to the temptation to ‘cheat’ too often (more than once per row or so) or you may compromise the randomness of the pattern. Treat this cable pattern like the child you’re knitting it for; don’t be completely unbending with the rules, but don’t be overly permissive, either.


BACK

Using smaller needles, CO 64[68, 74], 78[80, 86, 90] sts. Work 10[12, 12], 12[14, 14, 14] rows in k1p1 rib.

Next row (RS): using larger needles, k across, increasing 14[16, 16], 16[18, 18, 18] sts evenly across for a total of 78[84, 90], 94[98, 104, 108] sts.

Begin working Random Cable Pattern.
Work in pattern until work measures 7.5[8, 8.5], 9[9.5, 10, 10.75] inches, ending with a RS row.

Shape armhole
Next row (WS): work *p2, p2tog* 1[1, 1], 1[2, 2, 2] times at beginning of next row, work across to last 5[5, 5], 5[10, 10, 10] sts, work *p2, p2tog* 1[1, 1], 1[2, 2, 2] times. BO 6[8, 8], 8[10, 10, 12] sts at beg of next 2 rows. 66[68, 74], 78[78, 84, 84] sts remain.

Continue in patt until work measures 13[14, 15] 16[17, 18, 19] inches (armhole measures 5.5[6, 6.5], 7[7.5, 8, 8] inches), ending with a RS row.

Next row (WS): *p3, p2tog* across to last 1[3, 4], 3[3, 4, 4] sts, p to end. BO all sts.

FRONT: work as for back until armhole measures 3.5[4, 4], 4.5[4.5, 5, 5.25] inches, ending with RS row.
Next row (WS): p 25[22, 25], 26[26, 27, 27] sts, work *p3, p2tog* 3[4, 4], 5[5, 6, 6] times, p across.
Next row (RS): p 25[22, 25], 26[27, 27, 27], place sts just worked onto stitch holder, BO next 13[20, 20], 21[21, 24, 24]sts, p across.

Note: While working neckline shaping for Right Shoulder, when working Row 1 of Random Cable Pattern, count the sts on your left needle after working the decrease in that row. If there is an odd number of sts on your left needle, k1 before rolling your die, ie. you should only begin working cables if there is an even number of sts on your left needle.

Right Shoulder:
Decrease one stitch at neck edge every other row 2[5, 5], 6[5, 5, 5] times and every 4th row 2[1, 1], 1[2, 2, 2] times. Continue in patt until work measures 13[14, 15] 16[17, 18, 19] inches, ending with a RS row: 21[16, 19], 19[19, 20, 20] sts rem.
Next row (WS): work *p3, p2tog* to last 1[1, 4], 4[4, 0, 0] sts, p across. BO all sts.

Left Shoulder:
Note: instructions are written for both a standard crew neck and for a button shoulder for sizes 2, 4 and 6. Please follow only one set of instructions.
Crew neck: Replace held sts on needle with WS facing, rejoin yarn. Work neck shaping as for right shoulder, reversing all shaping.

Optional Button Shoulder (sizes 2, 4 and 6 only): Replace held sts on needle with WS facing, rejoin yarn. Decrease one st at neck edge every other row 3[4, 5] times, ending with RS row.
Next row (WS): work *p3, p2tog* across to last 0[2, 4] sts, p to end. BO all sts.

SLEEVES (make 2)
With smaller needles, co 32[36, 38], 40[40, 42, 42] sts and work 10[12, 12], 12[14, 14, 14] rows in k1p1 rib.

Next row (RS): using larger needles, k across, increasing 10[8, 8], 8[8, 8, 10] sts evenly across for a total of 42[44, 46], 48[48, 50, 52] sts. P 1 row.
Next row (RS): k2, m1, place marker, work Row 1 of Random Cable Pattern to last 2 sts, m1, k2.
While working sleeve shaping, when working Row 1 of Random Cable Pattern, count number of sts before marker, after working increase. If the number of sts is odd, k1 before rolling the die. If the marker ends up in the middle of a cable twist later on, remove it, then replace it after working the cable twist.

Sleeve shaping: Increase every 4th row 0[0, 2], 1[5, 6, 6] times, then every 6th row 2[6, 10, 12[11, 12, 13] times, then every 8th row 6[4, 0], 0[0, 0, 0] times for a total of 58[64, 70], 74[80, 86, 86] sts. Work in patt until piece measures 12.25[13.5, 14], 15.25[17, 18.75, 19.75] ins, ending with a RS row.
Next row (WS): work *p3, p2tog* across to last 3[4, 0], 4[0, 1, 1] sts, p to end. BO all sts.

FINISHING
Block all pieces to measurements.

Weave shoulder seams. Sew in sleeves. Sew underarm and side seam. Using dpns, with right side facing, begin at left front neck and pick up 6[7, 8], 8[9, 9, 9] sts along left neck edge, 14[20, 20], 22[22, 24, 24] sts along front neck, 6[7, 8], 8[9, 9, 9] sts along right neck edge and 28[30, 30], 34[34, 36, 36] sts along back neck for a total of 54[64, 66], 72[74, 78, 78] sts. Work 10[12, 12], 14[14, 14, 16] rows of k1p1 ribbing. Bind off all stitches loosely.

Weave in ends.